SHAPE AND CUT OF DIAMONDS

 HISTORY OF DIAMOND CUT AND SHAPE 

Diamonds have beautiful journey since the 14th century in the diamond industry and started cutting of diamonds in different shapes.At that time only one shape is discovered and that is ROUND shape.After that as per the cutting accuracy and ease to polishing method one by one new shape was founded in some of next centuries.Over the world India and China is major cutting and polishing countries.In India Surat is major diamond exporting unit from last some decades.

Due to it's beauty and shine it is too much famous in the world for diamond jewelry.Behind the scene it is very tough in nature so it is used for industrial purpose in fabrication and optics.In fabrication it is used as a cutting tool for hard materials.Optics use diamond for some light reflection purpose and diamond is valued by it's shine and shape.

Shape of Diamond is depends on it's stone structure and shaped as per it's configuration.Diamond are most beautiful when it reflect more amount of light because due to that it will shine more and it shows the cutting in detail.This shining is also known as Sparkling Beauty of diamond.

 SHAPE AND CUT OF DIAMONDS 

There are many types of diamond shape, but mainly it is divided into 10 different categories as shown in below image,

  

  

Now, let us discuss about the diamond shape in detail with it's some special features.


(1)  ROUND SHAPE

• Whenever you think about the diamond first you will imagine Round shape diamond because it is brilliant cut compare to all other shape of the diamond.For the polishing of round shape diamond is to difficult and process done with experts help.During the cutting there is a loss of carat weight and effort of labour.Round shape diamond is highest reflectivity compare to all diamonds cut.Due to this property is have sparkling shine and beauty.So round shape diamond are expensive in all diamonds even at low color and clarity.
• Value of any diamond is measured by the Reflection of light, Table %, Depth % and Length to width ratio of diamond.It can be explained in gemological language.Diamonds are graded as per these criteria and get verified.

Here, you can see 

Total Depth of Diamond 

( Left side ) 

and 

Table % 

( Right side )

>> Reflection of light is the amount of light reflected from all facets with sparkling shine.

>> Table % is amount of table cut in reference of area.

>> Depth % is total count of Crown height + Griddle thickness + Pavilion depth.

>> L-W ratio is Length to Width ratio in table side view.

(2)  PRINCESS SHAPE

• Princess cut diamonds are symmetric and square in shape.It is exactly rectangle and 90 deg. corners each.Princess cut diamonds are beautiful in some other diamonds and more effective in shape.

• Cutting of princess shape diamond is to be very accurate and lose less amount of original carat weight compare to others so, it's cost is less than other diamonds and more good looking in rings.In princess cut diamond you can achieve more number of facets.

(3)  CUSHION SHAPE

• Cushion cut diamonds are the combination of two diamonds round shape and princess cut diamonds.It is more popular since 20's.Now a days it is to much popular for the engagement rings and gifts.You can see that at the culet point there is an another facet.Corners are sharply rounded which is the beauty of cushion shape diamonds.

• In the cushion shape diamond facets can be cut as per customer choice so, it is customized in shape.It also provided larger facets which gives you a great appearance to the diamond.Due to the larger facets it need more effort and labour work.

(4)  RADIANT SHAPE

• Radiant shape diamonds are shaped as like princess cut diamonds but the difference is that in radiant shape diamonds corners are trimmed and cut in different facets.One most effective thing is that in radiant cut, depth of diamond is larger than others.Due to these Carat weight is increase.

• Due to it's trimmed corner diamonds are durable and used for usual or ordinary lifestyle.As it's design radiant shape diamond are very precise and accurate in shape so it's cutting is done under the experienced and skilled person only.

(5)  PEAR SHAPE

• Pear shape diamonds are hybrid shape diamonds which is combination of round and marquise shape diamonds. It's shape is like a almond and it is also known as drop cut diamond.As you can see in the photo L-W ratio of this diamond is almost equal to or more then 1.5 so carat weight is higher than all other diamonds.Due to that there is a loss of carat weight and manpower.It is hard to inspect facets of pear cut diamonds.

• Overall pear shape diamond are one the best cut for pendent and engagement rings.It looks amazing when mounted with colored diamonds.

(6)  EMERALD SHAPE

• Emerald shaped diamonds are to simple in shape but brilliance of emerald shape diamonds is high.It's shape is like steps in look and strait cut of facets.IT is lower in cost compare to others.In this shape corners are trimmed as in radiant cut.L-W ratio is higher than others.Cutting of emerald shape diamond requires less intelligence and more effort due to large facet cutting and higher removal of rough diamond.

(7)  ASSCHER SHAPE

• Asscher shape diamonds are same as emerald shape diamonds but there is one difference between them is asscher cut is square in shape and emerald cut is rectangular in shape.Almost other features are same.One more difference is that brilliance in asscher shape diamonds are more because of small and equal facets.Also there is a cost reduction due to the less carat weight of rough diamond.

(8)  HEART SHAPE

• Heart shape is the symbol of love and trust.Heart shape diamonds is an amazing shape for the engagement rings, Gifts, Royalty and most beautiful then all other diamond shape.It is the combination of round shape diamond and marquise shape diamond and symmetric like a mirror as shown in below image.

• Cutting of this shape is to difficult and requires much intelligence under the expert supervision.It requires highly experienced polishers who can get accurate diamond with brilliance and sparkling beauty.Cost of heart shape diamond is high due to hard working to make it.

(9)  OVAL SHAPE

• Oval shape diamonds are one type of round shape diamond in between them only difference is that the LW ratio of oval cut is higher then the round cut and the other parameter is almost same.By shape elongation of round shape oval cut can be obtain.Benefit of oval shape diamond is can be differ by it's look.Same carat weight of round shape and oval shape diamond oval cut is larger in size from any point view.

(10)  MARQUISE SHAPE

• Marquise shape is a reflection of pear shape diamond like a mirror from round side of diamond.It is the most unique shape for the ordinary life use.From the side view it is looks like a round shape cut.History of marquise shape diamond is very long and famous for the different shape and cut.Marquise shape diamonds are valued by its shape which depends on the facet count and L-W ratio of diamond.

• Normally length to width ratio is 1.8 to 2.2 and the best brilliance con achieve with 2 : 1 ratio.It is suite with ordinary jewelry and other diamond pieces.

Now, you are the expert of your choice and hoe to buy your favorite one with the best collection from the world of the jewelry market.It is the journey after the manufacturing of diamonds for ready use.Other then it the journey of diamond cutting is more interesting and full of suspense.So will be ready to the next blog.

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Journey of Diamonds from "mine to market"

Types of Diamonds

HPHT Diamonds

JOURNEY OF DIAMONDS FROM MINE TO MARKET

Diamond is the symbol of beauty and shine. Diamond is the most beautiful element in the jewelry market as well as in the industry. History of diamond is to much interesting and how it is found in past it is to hard journey. Diamonds could not get easily. It is processed under so many units. In mines there  is to much human effort is required for the extraction of rough stone and then sent to so many quality checks in diamond processing industries. Diamond is to hard in nature and have great mechanical properties like toughness, hardness, conductivity, chemical stability, etc. Diamond cutting  is also a hard process and requires human intelligence. Diamond is valued by it's color, clarity, carat and size. Lets see the journey of Diamond from Mines to Market.

• Diamond generated from carbon of waste on earth. It takes thousands of year under high pressure of and very high temperature. Now a days Diamonds are found in kimberlite, an ultrabsic volcanic rock formed very deep in Earth's crust.It is generally extracted by blast of detonator.
• Then it is bring to the factory by transportation.At the factory shop floor it processed for washing, mesh filtering, grease and magnet conveyor sorting.After that it is send for manual separation.Here mining process is over and finally get stone.
• Now stone will send for further process and separated as per the properties of every stone as following,

Stone from mine

____________||____________

/                                                                     \

(1) Industrial stone (80%)                                     (2) Gem stone (20%)  

• Gem stones are further classified in different categories like cut, color, clarity and caret.
• Industrial gems are divided into types of rough diamonds and they are sent to DTC company.   Now company do quality checking and explore it in the diamond market.They also sell to site holders.
• In the diamond market there are so many buyers and dealers who deals with diamond rough and process for assorting in different range.

Now, diamond machine technology enters in the market.The total process from diamond cutting to finished diamond following processes are to be done,

• Assorted diamonds are send for Galaxy planning process where it scanned 360 deg. and analyse the inclusion in the diamond.Also do Chhapka process for manual inclusion.

• Next process is done in Planner machine for planning of diamond in rough gemstones and send to Sawing machine where it cut as per the planned marking on it. Sometimes remapping and correction is required which can be done in planning process.

• After planner machine it will send to 4P machine where diamond is processed for table, crowning, bruiting and coning. There are advanced two process of Blocking and Faceting is required sometimes for better polishing of diamond.

• Now we can see basic shape of diamond so it is ready for polishing.In diamond polishing process it get real shape of diamond.Now it will sent to for Grading, Sorting and Color mapping. Which improves the quality of diamond.

• Now, It is ready to sell with laboratories certification.

To run any diamond proceeding unit you must need the following machines to complete the process,

• Inclusion and Mapping machine.
• Planner machine.
• Sawing machine.
• 4P machine.
• Bruiting machine
• Blocking and Faceting machine.
• Polishing machine.
• Diamond checking machine ( CVD machine ).

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Types of Diamonds

Fluorescence Diamonds

HPHT Diamonds

How HPHT Diamond grown in Lab

What is HTHP Diamond

Human have created several methods to produce diamonds, high pressure high temperature is one of them. Scientist studied various processes and performed so many experiments. Finally they built new pressure chambers and began to experiment with different temperature. HPHT is a scientific procedure which is
performed inside laboratory where temperature and pressure is raised to produce genuine facsimile mined diamonds. The price of lab grown diamonds is fairly
comparable with natural one. It shows the same optical and chemical property.

There are specific designs templates which provide prescribed parameter for the pressure and temperature to produce synthetic diamonds are:

1. The belt press
2. The cubic pressing
3. The split sphere (BARS)

Process:

Diamond seeds are placed at the bottom of the press. The internal part of the press is heated above 1400C which melts the solvent metal. The high purity carbon source which dissolve s the molten metal which is then transported to small diamond seed and precipitates which result into a large synthetic diamond.

The belt press:

The belt press has an upper and lower anvil which is used to supply the pressure load to the cylindrical cell. The internal pressure is confined radially by the pre-stress steel bands. The anvil also functions as the electrode which provides electric current to the compressed cell. A variation of the belt press uses hydraulic pressure, rather than the steel belts, to confine the internal pressure.

The cubic press:

The cubic press has six anvils which provide pressure simultaneously to all the six faces. A cubic press is usually smaller then the belt press which is beneficial in achieving high pressure and temperature necessary to create the synthetic diamond. Cubic press cannot be easily scale up to larger volumes, the pressurized volume can be increased by using the large anvils but simultaneously it increases the amount of forced applied on the anvils to match the same pressure. Again if we decreases the surface area to volume ratio of the pressurized volume, by using the more anvils to converge upon a higher-order platonic solid, such as a dodecahedron.

The split sphere (BARS):

The BARS is the most compact, efficient and economical among all the diamond-producing press. In the center of the BARS there is one cylindrical synthetic capsule of 2cm 3 size. The cell is placed in to the cube of pressure-transmitting material such as pyrophyllite ceramics which is pressed by the inner anvils made from cemented carbide. The outer octahedral cavity is pressed by 8 steel outer anvils. After mounting the whole assembly is locked in a disc type barrel with diameter about 1 meter. The barrel is filled with oil, which is then pressurizes upon heating, and the oil pressure is transferred to the central cell. The synthetic capsule is heated up by a coaxial graphite heater and the temperature is measured with a thermocouple.

That's all. Looks simple but actually is much difficult than you think. Lets learn another process which is CVD in next article. 

FLUOROSCENTS DIAMONDS

FLUOROSCENTS DIAMONDS

Fluorescent diamonds is a diamond which imparts color while expose to UV light or sunlight. The molecules in the crystalline structure get excited and begin to fluoresce. The more excited molecules get the stronger fluorescence which emits different strength of a diamonds. Every stone has some amount of fluorescence in it. Some executes negligible while other executes this property very strongly. Fluorescent scale is given below ranging from negligible to very strong:

NONE  >>  NEGLIGIBLE  >>  FAINT  >>  MEDIUM  >>  STRONG  >>  VERY STRONG

Fluorescent stones are transparent too; this means possessing fluorescence property will not affect its transparency. According to GIA (GEMOLOGY INSTITUE OF AMERICA) average person could not make a difference between fluorescence diamond and normal diamond. We can perform the experiment to check whether your diamond is fluorescent or not. By performing several steps we can identify its fluorescence nature. First we have to place a diamond on a clean surface. Secondly we will emit UV light upon diamond. As a result we can see that if a diamond turns milky and fluorescence than that diamond is fluorescent diamond. And if diamond glows slightly it also poses some fluorescent property. And when  it do not respond while UV light falls on it and shows no change that diamond do not have fluorescent property. Some other property has been examined such as phosphorescence. Phosphorescence can be elaborated as; when you take diamond away from the ultra violet light it will continue to fluorescence. This property can be noticed in very rare diamonds. Let’s have look towards some positive and negative factors of fluorescent diamonds.

Positive factors of Fluorescent Diamonds:

•  Medium, strong, very strong fluorescence can be discounted to a graded degree.
• No impact on the transparency of diamond.
• It can make warmer color diamonds look whiter than what they actually are.
• Fluorescence can be seen in natural sunlight or natural daylight.
• Diamond appears wider than its actual size under natural daylight as it has long –wave UV rays.

Negative factors of Fluorescent Diamonds:

• Diamonds look oily and chalky which do not have property of strong or very strong fluorescence.
• Fluorescence can make a diamond appear hazy in certain lighting.
• Diamond graining can also make diamond appear milky.

Types of Diamond

Types of Diamond

1. Natural Diamond      
2. Treated Diamond     
3. Man-made Diamond     

Natural Diamonds:

Diamonds - the hardest material ever found on the earth by humans known as Natural Diamond. It is made up from primarily carbon. Its unique structural formation makes it the hardest substance ever known. It take millions of years to form and are created naturally deep inside the earth mantle, as it takes long span of time for formation it is very costly. Its amazing characteristics make a stretch in its uses from ornamental production to industrial purpose, as they are good conductors of heat.

  

Treated Diamonds:

It is very rare to find perfect diamond without any flaws however treated diamonds are also natural diamonds but altered by technology. It is also called ‘enhanced diamond’ which are treated to improve clarity grade so that it appears translucent and show perfect shape. Its color and purity has been changed by heating under pressure.

Manmade Diamonds:

Manmade diamonds are also known as synthetic diamonds. These types of diamonds are developing under expert supervisions where the same kind of environment is created inside a laboratory. This technology has been around long time. The same pressure and same temperature (heat) is created to genuinely replicate natural diamond with synthetic one.

This diamonds appear same as natural one by look and properties too. There are two types of manmade diamonds:

·        CVD – Chemical Vapor Deposition

·        HPHT– High Pressure  High Temperature

Chemical Vapor Deposition Diamond:

CVD is a method in which hydrocarbon gas is being treated in special surrounding to grow diamonds. This diamonds are required substrate preparation choosing an appropriate material and its crystallographic orientation, feeding varying amounts of hydrocarbon and non-reactive gases into a chamber and energizing them. The required diamond is formed after several cycles of treatment. This diamonds also have semiconductor properties which is further uses for industrial purpose as well.

High Pressure High Temperature:                                      

HPHT is a scientific procedure which is performed inside laboratory where temperature and pressure is raised much higher to produce genuine facsimile mined diamonds. The price of lab grown diamonds is fairly comparable with natural one. It shows the same optical and chemical property. The 4Cs still apply: cut, clarity, carat and color. 

We will go in depth to each type of Diamond in next articles separately. 

ABCD of Diamond

ABCD of Diamond ?

Yes you read right. Its ABCD of Diamond instead of 4C of diamond. The world of Diamond gone beyond 4C which represent Color, Carat, Cut and Clarity. Nowadays the first question is like "Is it Natural, CVD or HPHT?" and Second is  "How authentic is it?". Then the buyer go for 4C parameters. So looking at the situation we have decided to update knowledge of our readers by writing series of articles about Diamonds. This will include basic information about Diamond to modern and scientific updates in industry. And from history of Diamond to latest trend and beyond it our future prediction about Diamonds. We will try to answer your questions too. So subscribe to this site and get ready to fly in journey of updating your knowledge and belief about Diamond. We will be happy if you suggest us the topic which you wanted to know about in this segment.